Microneedling

Stimulate the skin with micro-needles so that it produces its own collagen.

Dr Victor Médard de ChardonWritten and reviewed by Dr Victor Médard de Chardon
Updated

Microneedling at a glance

  • Session30 to 45 min
  • AnaesthesiaNumbing cream
  • Social downtime24 to 48 hours
  • Protocol3 to 6 sessions
  • ResultGradual, 3 to 6 months
  • Price€100 to €250

Microneedling, or percutaneous collagen induction, creates tiny, controlled punctures in the skin using a micro-needle pen. As it heals, the skin produces collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid: it becomes denser and smoother, with a finer texture. It treats early skin ageing, acne scars, stretch marks and enlarged pores. The session lasts 30 to 45 minutes at the Cannes practice, under numbing cream; the skin stays red for 24 to 48 hours. The protocol involves 3 to 6 sessions; the result keeps improving for 3 to 6 months.

Price: €100 to €250 per session; free consultation.

Who is it for?

Microneedling is for women and men, often from the age of 30 to 35, both as prevention and as treatment:

  • early skin ageing: loss of radiance, moderate laxity, fine lines around the eyes (crow’s feet), around the lips or on the forehead;
  • depressed acne scars (rolling, ice-pick and boxcar scars), one of its best indications;
  • stretch marks, especially recent ones (red or purplish);
  • enlarged pores and oily skin;
  • some superficial pigment spots and melasma, together with depigmenting skincare and with caution on olive or dark skin;
  • early hair loss of hormonal origin (alopecia), on the scalp.

It improves skin quality but does not restore volume: that is the role of hyaluronic acid fillers.

Microneedling, dermaroller or laser?

Microneedling with a medical penDermaroller at homeAblative fractional laser
PrinciplePerpendicular micro-punctures, adjustable depthRoller with fixed needlesColumns of skin destroyed by heat
Depth0.25 to 2.5 mm, depending on the areaNot adjustableDeep
HygieneSterile single-use tipsImperfect—
Social downtime24 to 48 hours—5 to 10 days
LimitationsSeveral sessionsOblique punctures, less effectiveHigher risk of pigment spots on Mediterranean skin
At the practiceYesNoNot offered

Fractional radiofrequency combines micro-needles with heat delivery: it adds a tightening effect, at the cost of heavier equipment and a more marked recovery; Dr Médard de Chardon does not offer it.

How does microneedling work?

The micro-needles pass through the epidermis into the superficial dermis. These micro-injuries, invisible to the naked eye, trigger the skin’s natural healing process in three phases: inflammation, collagen production and remodelling.

Unlike ablative laser or a deep peel, microneedling does not destroy the epidermis, so recovery is short.

● growth factors releasedepidermispapillary dermisreticular dermishypodermis1. Inflammation: first 48 hours

Inflammation (first 48 hours): the skin releases growth factors that activate the fibroblasts.

What depth?

The medical electric pen, with sterile single-use tips, adjusts the depth of the needles to the indication.

0.25 to 0.5 mmepidermispapillary dermisreticular dermishypodermis0.25 to 0.5 mm: helping skincare products penetrate

0.25 to 0.5 mm: helping skincare products penetrate.

What happens during a microneedling session?

  1. ConsultationAt the practice, 101 rue d’Antibes, Cannes: examination of the skin, choice of indication, number of sessions and complementary treatments.
  2. Skin preparationRecommended 2 to 4 weeks before the first session, especially for skin prone to pigment spots: retinol, vitamin C and strict sun protection.
  3. SessionAt the practice, in 30 to 45 minutes: make-up removal, numbing cream 30 to 45 minutes beforehand (and Kalinox, a relaxing gas, for sensitive areas if needed), then criss-cross passes of the pen until there is even redness and fine red pinpoints, a sign that the right depth has been reached.
  4. Products appliedDuring and just after the session, they penetrate better through the micro-channels: non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and peptides.
  5. Follow-up sessionsAccording to the protocol.

Is microneedling painful?

Only slightly: the numbing cream, applied 30 to 45 minutes beforehand, makes the session comfortable; for sensitive areas, Kalinox can be added.

How many sessions are needed?

  • Prevention of ageing: 3 to 4 sessions 4 to 6 weeks apart, then 1 to 2 maintenance sessions a year;
  • acne scars: 4 to 6 sessions 4 to 6 weeks apart;
  • stretch marks: 4 to 6 sessions 6 to 8 weeks apart;
  • alopecia: 6 to 10 sessions 2 to 4 weeks apart, then one session a month.

The result becomes visible from the 2nd or 3rd session and continues to improve for 6 months after the end of the protocol.

What is the recovery like?

  • Redness like mild sunburn for 24 to 48 hours; a feeling of warmth and tightness for a few hours.
  • Fine, discreet flaking possible around day 3 or 4.
  • Social life: usually back to normal the next day, with a light foundation if needed.
  • Aftercare: no make-up for 24 hours; no sun for one week, then SPF 50+ every day for a month; no sauna, steam room or swimming pool for 48 to 72 hours; no intense exercise for 24 hours; generous moisturising; no irritating products (acids, retinol, concentrated vitamin C) for 5 to 7 days.

Where will you be?

14 days after the session

Social lifeNormal life
SkinNormal skin
SunSPF 50+ every day
CollagenProduction of new collagen

What are the risks?

Performed by an experienced doctor, microneedling is safe. The side effects are mainly prolonged redness and, on olive or dark skin, pigment spots after the inflammation; more rarely, an infection, in particular reactivation of a cold sore (herpes).

Contraindications: skin infection in the area (herpes, impetigo, folliculitis, active acne flare); active skin disease (eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, severe rosacea); keloids; pregnancy and breastfeeding; isotretinoin treatment within the previous 6 months; clotting disorders or anticoagulant treatment; recent radiotherapy to the area; uncontrolled autoimmune disease. On very dark skin (phototypes V and VI), the protocol is adapted.

Choosing a qualified, experienced and reputable surgeon reduces these risks, and can even eliminate some of them.

What can it be combined with?

Microneedling forms part of a personalised treatment plan, drawn up at the consultation according to your age, skin quality, expectations and lifestyle:

Dr Médard de Chardon’s experience

15years
in practice in Cannes, since 2011
  • Qualified plastic surgeon in plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgery.
  • In practice in Cannes since 2011; member of SOFCEP (French Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery), SOFCPRE (French Society of Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery) and ISAPS (International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery).
  • He also treats scars surgically, and combines microneedling with other skin treatments in a personalised plan.

How much does microneedling cost in Cannes?

€100 to €250

Per session, depending on the area and the indication. The consultation is free. Aesthetic microneedling is not reimbursed by French national health insurance (Assurance Maladie).

Book an appointment: +33 (0)4 93 68 86 68 or Doctolib.

Frequently asked questions about microneedling

Does microneedling hurt?

Only slightly. A numbing cream is applied 30 to 45 minutes before the session; for sensitive areas, Kalinox can be added.

How many microneedling sessions are needed?

3 to 4 sessions to prevent ageing, 4 to 6 for acne scars or stretch marks, 4 to 8 weeks apart; then 1 to 2 maintenance sessions a year.

When can you see the result of microneedling?

From the 2nd or 3rd session; it continues to improve for 6 months after the end of the protocol, while the collagen remodels.

Can you go straight back to your usual activities after microneedling?

Usually the next day. The skin stays red for 24 to 48 hours; no make-up for 24 hours, no sun for one week.

Does microneedling treat acne scars?

Yes, it is one of its best indications: depressed scars fade in 4 to 6 sessions.

What is the difference between microneedling and a dermaroller?

A dermaroller, used at home, has fixed needles that puncture the skin at an angle, at a depth that cannot be adjusted and with imperfect hygiene. The medical pen punctures the skin perpendicularly, at the chosen depth, with sterile single-use tips.

How much does microneedling cost in Cannes?

From €100 to €250 per session; the consultation is free.

Preparing for your consultation

Consultation at the practice, 101 rue d’Antibes, Cannes. Procedures at Clinique Oxford.