Laser hair removal

How does laser hair removal work?

The laser emits light of a single wavelength, which is absorbed by the melanin in the hair. It is converted into heat, which destroys the bulb and the cells that make the hair grow back, without damaging the surrounding skin: this is selective photothermolysis, described by Anderson and Parrish in 1983.

For the laser to work, the hair must be:

• pigmented: white, grey, blond or red hairs absorb the light poorly and respond little;
• in its growth phase (anagen phase), the only phase in which it is connected to the bulb. At any given time, only 20 to 30% of the hairs in an area are in this phase: this is why several sessions are needed.

1. 1Growing hair, connected to the pigmented bulb: the light is absorbed by the melanin and the heat destroys the bulb
2. 2Regressing hair: the bulb detaches and moves upwards; the laser has little effect
3. 3Resting hair, ready to fall out: no bulb left, the laser has no target

Intense pulsed light (IPL), used in beauty salons, emits a broad spectrum of wavelengths: it is less targeted and generally requires more sessions.

Which laser for which skin?

The choice of laser depends on the phototype, that is, the colour of the skin and how it reacts to the sun (Fitzpatrick classification, from I, very fair skin, to VI, black skin). The darker the skin, the more melanin it contains, which may absorb the light instead of the hair.

Laser	Wavelength	Suitable skin	Strengths
Alexandrite	755 nm	Fair to olive (phototypes I to III, IV with caution)	Fine to medium hair, large areas
Diode	808-810 nm	Fair to olive (I to IV)	Thick hair, versatility
Nd:YAG	1064 nm	Olive, tanned, dark to black (IV to VI)	Dark skin, deep and ingrown hairs

The Silkeen centre has Alexandrite and Nd:YAG lasers, which means every phototype can be treated. Details of the lasers on the Silkeen website

How many sessions are needed?

A protocol generally includes 6 to 10 sessions to reduce hair growth in the area by 80 to 95%. The interval depends on the area:

• face: 4 to 6 weeks;
• underarms, bikini line: 6 to 8 weeks;
• legs, arms, back: 8 to 10 weeks.

Hormone-sensitive areas (women’s faces, the beard) often require more sessions and maintenance of one to two sessions a year. Where excessive hair growth has a hormonal cause (polycystic ovary syndrome, for example), tests are carried out in parallel.

How do you prepare, and what happens during a session?

Before the first session, a consultation checks your phototype, hair, current treatments and contraindications, and sets the protocol.

• 4 to 6 weeks before: no more waxing, tweezing or epilators, which pull out the root the laser targets; no sun or self-tanner.
• 24 to 48 hours before: shave the area.
• On the day: no perfume, deodorant or cream on the area; mention any new medication.

The session lasts from 5 minutes (upper lip) to about 90 minutes (full legs), with protective goggles. It feels like an elastic band snapping on the skin, softened by the device’s cooling system; Nd:YAG is generally more uncomfortable, and a numbing cream can be applied beforehand.

What happens after the session?

Redness and small bumps around the hairs last a few hours. The treated hairs fall out by themselves within 10 to 21 days. Between sessions, only shaving is allowed.

• no sun for 4 weeks, and total sunblock on exposed areas;
• no sauna, steam room or intense exercise for 48 hours;
• no scrubs for one week.

What are the contraindications?

• pregnancy (as a precaution);
• medicines that make the skin sensitive to light; isotretinoin, current or stopped less than 6 months ago;
• tanned skin or recent sun exposure;
• active skin disease in the area (herpes, eczema, psoriasis flare, vitiligo);
• a tattoo in the area; moles are protected during the laser pulses.

What are the side effects and risks?

The usual effects are minor and temporary: redness, slight swelling and tenderness for 24 to 48 hours, sometimes small scabs or folliculitis. More rarely, especially if the laser or its settings are not suited to the phototype or after sun exposure: a burn, a dark or light patch, and exceptionally paradoxical hair regrowth around the treated area, described mainly on the face and neck of olive skin.

Choosing a qualified, experienced and reputable surgeon reduces these risks, and can even eliminate some of them.

Laser or electrolysis?

Electrolysis (electric hair removal) destroys each hair, one at a time, with a current delivered into the follicle through a fine needle. It works whatever the colour of the hair: it is the solution for white, blond or red hairs, alongside the laser. It is slower and more uncomfortable. Everything about electrolysis

Who can perform laser hair removal?

Since the decree of 24 May 2024, laser and pulsed-light hair removal is no longer restricted to doctors in France: trained nurses and beauticians may perform it, with obligations regarding information, checking contraindications and traceability. A medical consultation before the first session is still recommended, in particular to identify a contraindication or hair growth of hormonal origin. At the Silkeen centre, 101 rue d’Antibes, Cannes, sessions are performed by a trained nurse.

How much does laser hair removal cost in Cannes?

Face

Area	Women	Men
Upper lip	€40	—
Chin	€40	—
Cheeks / cheekbones	€40	—
Between the eyebrows	€40	€30
Eyebrows	€40	€40
Sideburns	€40	—
Neck (front)	€50	€50
Nape of the neck	€50	€50
Forehead	€40	—
Jawline	€50	—
Full face	€90	€90
Ears	—	€40
Nose	—	€40
Cheekbones / beard outline	—	€50
Moustache	—	€40
Shirt collar line	—	€50
Beard	—	€80

Upper body

Area	Women	Men
Underarms	€50	€50
Shoulders	€40	€90
Upper arms	€100	€90
Forearms	€90	€100
Full arms	€140	€150
Hands / fingers	€40	€40
Abdominal line	€30	€40
Stomach	€70	€100
Décolleté	€120	—
Areolae	€30	€30
Back	€130	€150
Lower back / lumbar area	€40	€40
Upper back	€100	€120
Chest	—	€90

Bikini area

Area	Women	Men
Classic bikini	€50	€90
High-cut bikini	€80	—
Brazilian bikini + intergluteal cleft	€95	—
Full bikini + intergluteal cleft	€100	€110
Intergluteal cleft	€40	€70

Lower body

Area	Women	Men
Buttocks + intergluteal cleft	€70	€130
Thighs	€140	€180
Inner thighs	€80	—
Backs of the thighs	€80	—
Half legs	€140	€200
Full legs + feet	€230	€250
Knees	€40	€50
Feet / toes	€40	€40

Electrolysis (electric hair removal)	Price
15 min	€60
30 min	€100
45 min	€140
60 min	€180

Prices per session, from the Silkeen centre’s price list. Aesthetic procedures are not reimbursed. Book an appointment at the Silkeen centre on Doctolib

Frequently asked questions